What Are Mountain Leaders Supposed to Do?

I was on Tryfan last week. The classic mistakes were on full display for us to observe and learn from. While we were ascending the North Ridge, we saw a range of examples:
– Two runners trying to descend Waterfall Gully,
– A couple of blokes asking us where the track to the summit was,
– Someone with a Husky on a long extendable lead searching for the “easy way around,”
– And people in all sorts of strange places off to the sides of our known and rehearsed passage.

A mountain leader could have guided these people, shown them the best way, helped them choose more suitable objectives, and ultimately given them a safer, more enjoyable day out.

In another post I read on Facebook, a well-qualified and experienced mountain leader, who runs their own small business, was grumbling about the number of large groups led by unqualified people. These community walks often involve risks. Accidents rarely happen, but when they do, the organisers can find themselves wide open to blame.

It’s fair to say that walking is generally a safe pastime. But of course, anyone can slip or trip — and even the most qualified mountaineers have experienced such mishaps. On routes like Striding Edge, the North Ridge of Tryfan, or Crib Goch, those slips can easily become serious. One of the common causes of mountain rescues is people attempting shortcuts to a path they can see below. This often results in them becoming “crag-fast,” stuck on difficult ground they were trying to avoid.

This is exactly where mountain leaders come in. They can’t prevent every trip or slip, but they can minimise the risks, especially in the wrong places. They can refocus a group’s concentration when needed, and most importantly, they can choose the best route for the group on the day, given the prevailing conditions.

A good mountain leader can read weather forecasts, assess terrain and people, make sound judgements, and base good decisions on those assessments. That’s what a mountain leader does,  they add safety, structure, and value to the day.

But their role doesn’t stop there. Mountain leaders should also educate the people they guide - about the place they’re in, why it’s special, why it needs care, and what challenges it faces. A true mountain leader is not just a guide, but also a good listener, teacher, and ambassador for the mountains.

“The guide finds treasures to the right and left for followers in territory which to most people appears barren.”
— Enos Mills, 1920

A mountain leader is also well prepared and plans ahead. They keep up to date and are keen to learn new things about even the most familiar places. Every day is a school day - never more so than when you stand in front of a group as a leader.

Is it time to check your CPD CV? 2026 workshops are now open for booking…

Cheers,
Mike